The Skeleton that is my Wardrobe - Introduction to this Blog

As are many with a passion for collecting, I am limited by purse strings and space, although, to be strictly truthful it is the former rather than the latter, which has ever been my greater concern.

However, with a chance that we may move home in the near future and with the added impetus of being costumer on a new film project, I decided to set myself the challenge of freeing up at least part of my fabric, furnishings and clothing collection. Material and clothes are meant to move, hanging them up in a wardrobe or folding them up on a shelf assures they remain inanimate. It's time to open the wardrobe doors, loosen their bonds and let them escape. The fiat has gone forth for them to be shaken out and/or deconstructed, then re-fashioned to serve a purpose above and beyond being stared at and coveted by me.

From skirt to sleeves. The 'old woman' costume above uses one of my favourite skirts as a trompe l'oeil to create my take on a traditional Russian sarafan.

The Challenge - Unwrapping the Mummy

I started my collection of fabrics and clothes years ago when I had easy access to some of the great historic markets such as Brick Lane, Bath and Covent Garden. It was also at a time when the UK still had fabric shops a-plenty and the beginnings of cut price fashion such as the Monsoon Sale Shop and Next to Nothing. The main treasure trove though, for serious collectors, was to be found in the jumble sales, charity shops, auctions and the wonderful vintage (and older) clothing emporiums. Finding clothes has been for me a study in social history, just as collecting china would mean a visit to the Potteries, so vintage and 'old' clothes could be traced to the textile centres of the North and Midlands of England.

Above; contemporary lace collar, 1920's beaded and sequined lace and feathered aigrette, 1930's kid gloves, 1950's costume jewellery belt from a Dior frock, Victorian lace pillow case and Regency cut steel removable shoe buckles. It is interesting to note that in previous eras people valued and upcycled parts of their clothing. Collars and cuffs, for example, as these modern versions below, could be removed and laundered separately, thus endlessly re-fitted to the classic subfusc work clothes.

As someone who has always made clothes, starting as a small child outfitting dolls and working upwards, whenever I look to buy garments I generally turn them inside out, to see how they are made. Even when well-worn and mass-produced, these clothes are now great for upcycling as they are professionally sewn and often have generous seam allowances. I have also bought a few good quality clothes at knock-down prices because they needed mending, so part of my challenge will be to complete these projects too. Other items, such as woollens, where the fabric is worn beyond reuse and good only for rags and dusters, I have now been able to upcycle for fixings, such as beads and buttons.

I only bought/buy natural materials, except on the few occasions, where I have been particularly drawn to a print,  so again these have worn well and are suitable for reuse. Over the past 10 years I have purchased mainly organic fabrics, so with some of these, as they are plain and often in a raw state, I will be experimenting with natural dyes and appliqué. (Above modern linen print, 1930's embroidered crêpe de Chine, organic flannel, hand-painted 1920's silk peignoir. Below, from Birmingham rag market, full length of wedding sari and heavily decorated scarf.) 

In addition to dress fabrics,I have a great hoard of linen, lace and embroidery as well as a reasonable amount of offcuts from furnishing fabrics and curtain materials. 

Proving that there is nothing new under the sun, here is an intricate piece of framed embroidery work, which is in fact an upcycled centuries old kimono sleeve.

Here also another of my collection, not for upcycling but does need some attention, a trumpet banner, a little memento got up in gold thread couched work on a pink silk ground to celebrate a visit from Queen Victoria.

Some of my textiles, including these embroidered roses on this beautiful late Victorian wedding tea cosy, will provide inspiration for my costume work and in particular for my first project which I will now set out below.

The Golden Goblet - Five fairytale film costumes on a shoestring

Climb the Ivy like many other small independent film companies, has a limited budget for its début onto the film competition circuit. The entry date for the above film is the day before my birthday, May 30th and as the rehearsals proper are starting this month, I have already got to the point where I am sewing in the car. The costumes I have designed and am now in the process of making up, are as follows, the (aforementioned) old woman, the Faerie Queen, a young girl, a Magician/Jester and a doll. As this is a short film and as I have been given quite a free rein on the costumes, I have tried to imbue them with the personality and duality of the characters. Although I pretty much had the ideas forming when I read the script, I wanted some cultural references and also, what the heck, loved making another collection of, albeit digital, fabric and costume. To do this therefore I turned to Pinterest and created a board, which you can find here Inspiration for Costumes

In Conclusion

I will be using my collection of fabrics and clothing in a variety of projects over the coming months. These range from film costumes for both live actors/actresses and the stop motion kind, clothes, hats, shoes, accessories, soft furnishings and upholstery, (dolls' house and animation sets included) to techniques for repairing and refurbishing old textiles. So hopefully there is something for everyone, even the character below awaiting refurbishment.

With regard to the World of Haute Couture, I have three claims to a passing acquaintance with it. Vivienne Westwood once gave me a square of chocolate, when visiting a shop I was working in.  I was temp PA, for a day, to Zandra Rhodes.  We live within a stone's throw of the Villa des Rhumbs, childhood home of Christian Dior. That over with, we can now forget it and get on with the blog.

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Find out more about Climb The Ivy Films here

All the very best,
Sue

 © 2015 Sue Cross